New York - February 01, 2002

Mr. McNally Goes to the East Village

Smith Restaurant

Cheeky Brian McNally thought he’d get this one in under the radar. He even kept the name of his new East Village restaurant as nondescript as possible.

But good news can only stay secret for so long. Cozy yet sophisticated, Smith is a bastion of wood-paneled, understated swank. It’s a perfect addition to this McNally brother’s empire (Odeon and ‘44’).

The interior isn’t quite finished, but the kitchen is serving hearty local fare that pays homage to the neighborhood in a big way. The chopped chicken livers come from Russ & Daughters, the famous Lower East Side deli around the corner. Sardines are served with sea salt, rye toast, and butter. Entrees include warm oyster pie, rabbit ravioli, and roasted chicken. For dessert, try the peanut-butter pudding with banana brule and hot chocolate. It just might make you feel warm and fuzzy all over.

McNally’s keeping it on the downlow because there’s nary a pretension — nor a power banquette — in sight. Here’s hoping it stays that way.

Smith, 64 East First Street, between First and Second Avenues (212-260-3189).