New York - April 26, 2002

Slick Like Butter

Butter Opens Downtown

Ah, the making of an It spot.
The reservation drill. (“Would you prefer a table at 6 or at 10:30?”)
Press announcements of a glamorama opening … when the floors are still covered in sawdust.

The much-hyped restaurant Butter finally opens today. What took so long? They had a lot to deal with. In addition to the main dining room, there’s a “casual bistro” downstairs (don’t call it a lounge!), where there’s a DJ booth but no regular DJ. Mini-windows on the walls showcase items donated by celebs (Carmen Kass’s Minox camera, Sting’s guitar strings) — and all proceeds go to charity. Did someone say theme park? There are enough garnishes here for the most ADD-addled party-hopper.

Former Chanterelle chef Keith Harry is out to impress (gnocchi with wild mushrooms, red snapper with foie gras). Late-night spillovers from Serafina’s, Joe’s Pub, and Pangea can nosh on milk and fancy cookies.

Will Butter melt after its fifteen minutes? With a name like that, it’s hard not to think this joint has an expiration date stamped all over it.

Butter, 415 Lafayette Street, between Astor Place and East 4th Street (212-253-2828).