Los Angeles - October 20, 2003

Mexico Pretty

Malo Restaurant Opens

Some people insist on doing things the old-fashioned way.

Like Steven Arroyo, owner of Cobras & Matadors, the Hillmont, and Cobra Lily. When he opens a restaurant, he skips the big-shot designer and decorates it himself. Instead of throwing a splashy party, he just quietly opens the doors. So why the string of hits? Simple. Good food, friendly attitude.

With Malo, his new Mexican restaurant in Silver Lake, he’s stuck to the same recipe. The space is industrial-looking, with glossy black subway tiles, red velvet wallpaper, and funky sconces. The menu is a la carte: wafer-thin pork chops in onion and tomatillo salsa; shrimp diablo in garlic-habanero cream sauce; chicken yucateco marinated in achiote and citrus; and an array of ceviches (octopus, fish, shrimp). If the food and the vibe are any indication, Malo’s destined to be as popular as its predecessors.

Those worried that all the success is going to Steven’s head need only call the restaurant’s answering machine and hear him say “We’re having a great time. Hope to see you soon!” to set their minds at ease.

Talk about good old-fashioned hospitality.

Malo, 4326 Sunset Boulevard, half a block east of Fountain Avenue (323-664-1011).