Los Angeles - April 19, 2004

To Die For?

Blowfish Restaurant Opens

The deadly blowfish. One of the most dangerous delicacies on earth. Russian roulette with the reaper.

Apparently this sort of thing whets appetites. Even if you’re not into the extreme eating experience, Blowfish Sushi has plenty to offer. The new restaurant, located in the space that once housed Bar One (don’t let the tacky predecessor — or tarplike sign — deter) serves both trad fare (maki, nigiri, and sashimi) and inventive twists (braised filet mignon over lobster maki with wasabi mascarpone; Ritsu Roll, a flash-fried rice-free roll of tuna, avocado, and tobiko), as well as a mean green-tea cheesecake.

The decor is all sleek, black-on-gray-on-red clubby, accented with framed manga cells and TV screens playing anime clips. A theme restaurant? Maybe. But the celeb clientele and delicious food make it a far cry from Planet Hollywood. You’ll even find fugu, or blowfish, when in season. Don’t worry, though. It’s pre-sliced, which supposedly removes the danger.

Gastronomical thrill seekers will have to get their kicks elsewhere.

Which really is just as well.

Blowfish Sushi, 9229 Sunset Boulevard, at Doheny Road (310-887-3848).