Dallas - February 13, 2006

Where There’s Smoke, There’s Firehouse

Firehouse Opens

There you go again. Always seeing the devil in the details.

Late for dinner? Clock’s possessed. Wicked hangover from too many tequila shots? Lucifer made you do it. Lost? Map was obviously done by a diabolical cartographer.

Fortunately, despite its name, Firehouse keeps such infernal evils at bay. After a two-year hiatus, the restaurant has reopened in spiffed-up digs. And they’re paying close attention to the particulars, from the easier-to-hold stemless wine glasses that ward off spills to the unconventional fireplace that makes flames a nonissue.

And the menu’s just as keen on the small stuff. Taste intricate dishes like the Stilton hamburger steak (ground chuck with a cheese filling served with homemade tomato chutney) and lightly battered pan-fried snapper topped with an avocado, white wine, and cheese sauce.

With these kinds of entrees even the most suspicious diners will see the divine side in the little things.

After all, eating is believing.

Firehouse, 1928 Greenville Avenue, Lower Greenville (214-826-0097 or firehousedallas.com).