New York - April 19, 2006

Keep the Change

Dressler Opens

Back in the day, the people of New Amsterdam scattered among the boroughs to pursue their apple-pie dreams, secure their good names, and make a little bit of cash in the process.

Funny how the more things change, the more they stay the same. Something remarked upon by Williamsburg restaurateur Colin Devlin at the opening of his latest Brooklyn eatery, Dressler.

The brain behind hipster joints Dumont and Dumont Burger culls inspiration for his latest endeavor from Steven Millhauser’s novel Martin Dressler, about a 19th-century New York entrepreneur.

The one-time print shop has a sleek deco look with mosaic floors and huge metalwork chandeliers.

The menu is a dressed-up version of the delicious food served at Devlin’s other spots. Start with the crispy artichoke and white bean salad. Move on to spring pea and fontina raviolini, roasted duck breast with duck crepinette and wild mushrooms, and halibut with cranberry and fava beans.

Finish with a lemon meringue tart or the chocolate and peanut butter parfait.

Otherwise known as the American Dream.

Dressler, 149 Broadway, between Bedford and Driggs Avenues, Williamsburg (718-384-6343).

  Bar Menu, Brunch, Dumont, Hot Date, Locavore