London - May 19, 2006

Utter Tripe

Arbutus Restaurant Opens

You’re done with pad thai. You’re over sushi. If you see another rocket pizza, you’ll scream.

How about a plate of lamb’s trotters and tripe?

Such delicacies can be found at Arbutus, which opens today. Run by Anthony Demetre and Will Smith, both formerly of Putney Bridge, the restaurant stands on the site of ’90s hangout Bistro Bruno, where Demetre once worked. The interior is simple and wooden. The food, meanwhile, is notably original. (By which we mean odd.)

Dishes on offer include braised pig’s head, saddle of rabbit or a squid and mackerel burger. Or what about rump of lamb with tortellini of ewe’s cheese? Pudding is slightly more conservative (but only slightly): warm chocolate soup with caramelized brioche and pecan nuts or mango with rice ‘imperatrice’ (your guess is as good as ours).

If you’re after a decent steak or roast chicken, they do those, but we recommend you investigate the joys of a little pied-paquet.

You might like it, or you might not.

But it’s offally good of you to try it.

Arbutus, 63 Frith Street, W1 (020 7734 4545).

  Concept Cuisine, Lunch Spot