Of the many fine reasons to hop over to Paris (wine, cheese, and snooty attitude aside), two stand out — shopping at Colette, and dinner at L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon. Both are shrines to their métiers; both have spawned countless imitators the world over.
So though you’ll still have to keep clocking frequent flier miles for the clothes (drat), as of today, you can get a taste of Robuchon right here in midtown.
L’Atelier, the restaurant that glamorized counter cuisine, has opened at the Four Seasons. Just like you’d do in Paris, grab a seat at the counter for maximum food prep views. (The tables just aren’t as cool, so leave your posse at home.) And just like it goes in Paris, reservations are hard to come by. (Don’t even try making one before Labor Day; it’s in soft opening.)
But some things will be just for NYC. (Oh, those French guys. So thoughtful.) Robuchon is still tinkering with the menu, but he promises a clever take on pastrami (as entree, not sammy), capellini with caviar, and roasted lamb with eggplant and herb salad. Oui, the famous mashed potatoes made the trip.
All that and no passport required.
L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon, Four Seasons Hotel New York, 57 East 57th Street, between Madison and Park Avenues (212-350-6658).