His hands reek of shellfish. After three hours of stewing, smashing, and stirring, he should be totally annoyed that the guy at table 37 paid $33 for the six courses he’s just labored over.

Unless, of course, he’s a student at Creations, the dining lab at The Art Institute of Atlanta. 
   
This school lab features white linen, candlelit table service, and Euro-traditional menus with modern twists. Make a reservation for lunch or dinner (at least 24 hours in advance, please) and experience “final projects” by Atlanta’s top chefs-in-training at a fraction of the price you’d pay elsewhere.

And if the idea of a “student” chef doesn’t sit quite right with you, take heart — an executive chef instructor (read: award-winning pro) hawk-eyes every item before it hits the dining room.

Thus ensuring that though you may, in fact, be too cool for school, your dinner there never will be.

Creations Dining Room, 6600 Peachtree Dunwoody Road, Dunwoody (404-689-4851 or artinstitutes.edu).