East Atlanta. Expert tattooing. Venues that rhyme with hurl. And people that trashed-talked L5P way before Target. Admit unadulterated adoration there, and you’re as good as passé. Until now. Crave opens tonight, and if the eclectic American flavors — Cajun, Southern, Cali — don’t put an earnest look on your face, nothing ever will. Things to look forward to: Every bottle is available by the glass. The Campus Stella Albarino (a Spanish white with florals, coconut, and honey) and Carina Cellars Viognier (from Santa Barbara, with apricot and peach tones) came so highly recommended that we had to get a sneak peak at a great pairing. Partner them with risotto crab cakes with black bean, sweet corn, and fire-roasted pepper sauce to start; the onion-crusted pork tenderloin nestled among garlic mashed potatoes; and a peach, cranberry, and mint compote to really set ’em off. Okay. The East Side Lounge and some band you heard on 88.5 should still make you secretly giddy. But copping to a good meal never hurt your reputation, either. Crave, 1314 Glenwood Avenue, East Atlanta (404-230-6177).