Atlanta - November 28, 2006

Just One More Bite

Dolce Opens

There’s a reason Hollywood loves sequels. 

Why be inventive when you can just recycle an old plot by making it bigger! Faster! With even more! Live! Action!?

Still, some franchise successes are well deserved. Like Dolce, the West Hollywood hotspot that finally (officially) opened an outpost in Atlantic Station.

Granted, it is bigger (twice as many seats and second-level private dining), slicker (blazing, plasma-screen fires replace real ones, which isn’t necessarily better), and super-duper fast (ghostlike staff replenish everything that hits your lips — used forks and melted ice included — without disturbing your meal).

But the original charms (iced lily buds on each table; sheer, obi-style curtains sweeping from twenty-foot ceilings) are just as cool. Not to mention the authentic, generous menu —  brown butter pumpkin ravioli, veal saltimbocca, and a Spanish and Italian wine list.

All the flavor, none of the pretense. Sounds like a breakout hit.

Oh yeah. You’ll be back for seconds.

Dolce Enoteca, 261 19th Street, Atlantic Station (404-872-3902).