Atlanta - December 08, 2006

Pop in Fresh

Callie’s Biscuits

Occasional shoelessness. Uncles named for grandmas Ashley and Stacey. And that inexplicable preoccupation with butter.

By other standards, your Southern social graces might not be considered so, er, graceful. But Callie’s biscuits, which recently hit West Midtown’s Star Provisions, are a sweet return to gentility.

The Charleston caterer’s fluffy goods come in perfectly civilized bite-size varieties. There’s cinnamon (layered with butter), country ham (made with Dijon, Virginia ham, and butter), and cheese (sharp cheddar and butter). Purists (or anyone looking to reach hog heaven in three bites or less) can also savor the classic buttermilk option.

Order them by the dozen (or more), then freeze or bake (and pass off as your own) right away. Be warned: Simple as they seem, the teeny treats are so rich and tasty that forgetting your manners could mean finishing a whole bag in a single sitting.

Which might offend someone’s sensibilities. And you’d never want to do that.

Available at Star Provisions, 1198 Howell Mill Road, West Midtown (404-365-0410); online at calliesbiscuits.com.