Atlanta - August 17, 2007

Viddle Italy

Valenza Opens

Darn that gut — always yearning for house-cured pancetta and warm, salty air. Darn that Olive Gardenista — always dismissing your Molto Mario impressions and table-side humidifier requests.

Eat your way back to the old country via Valenza, opening Monday in M!X’s old space. The weathered Italian pulpit and iron candelabras will put you in a Piedmont state of mind before you even take your first bite.

And the food. Resident chef Matthew Swickerath’s menu is an ode to Northern Italia: house-cut pasta (butternut squash ravioli with pecans), fish (topped with pine nuts in herb salad), and meats (rabbit with mascarpone polenta, veal with saffron risotto, sausage and rabe).

Can it be? A taste of Italy that rings true and doesn’t involve endless salad and bread sticks?

Si. No cable or passport necessary.

Valenza, 1441 Dresden Drive, suite 100, Brookhaven (404-969-3233 or valenzarestaurant.com).