Atlanta - October 03, 2007

Happy Happy, Joy Joy

Allegro Opens

Nice weather, schmice weather. Who’s gonna buy the seasonal affective dinner cop-out now?

No one. But that’s okay, as long as they’re making reservations at Allegro, which opens tonight.

Owner Alberto Fedeli spent his teenage summers hopping between his Italian hometown of Ancona and downtown Atlanta. The result is a Tuscan/Umbrian/Marche menu housed in a sunny, minimalist resto that’s modern Midtown cool.

Chef Jose Rego (Sotto Sotto, Fritti) imports Italian cheeses, oils, and seafood to create the bulk of the seasonally driven menu, so items like roasted beets with caramelized Granny Smith apples, goat cheese, and semolina blood orange vinaigrette will rotate every six weeks.

But it’s not all manic. Signature entrees like king crab cannelloni, milk-braised pork shank, and fruit salad with zabaglione (whipped Italian custard with sweet liquor) are there to stay. And they’re awaiting final approval for an original house sangiovese shiraz.

We call that looking on the bright side.

Allegro, 560 Dutch Valley Road, Midtown (404-888-1890).