Your nutritionist swore that going all-natural would, “like, totally heighten your senses.” Last night at Beleza you swore you whiffed a steaming pot of paella, pulled from an old country oven. Or maybe you just caught wind of Cuerno, Riccardo Ullio’s sumptuous new dining den next door. Go for authentic crema de cebolla (creamy onion, raisin chutney, and tomato soup) and sit back while it’s ladled tableside. Mood lighting gotten to you? Split a porron — a champagne decanter that’s shared hooka style among tablemates — before moving on to soupy lobster rice, confit cod and ham croquettes, and lamb racks cooked with vanilla oil. There’s nary a smidge of Beleza’s white-walled Miami vibe in the joint. Cuerno’s all about plums, charcoals, and modern crystal chandeliers illuminating a behemoth scrap metal bull sculpture. Bucking culinary tradition should be the last thing on your mind by now. Cuerno, 905 Juniper Street, Midtown (678-904-4584 or cuernorestaurant.com).