February 22, 2008

The Kindness of Strangers

Stella Neighborhood Trattoria Opens

Between Brando’s bellowing and Blanche’s high-brow hijinks, slumming sister-wife Stella kind of got lost in the streetcar shuffle.

Well. That was a mouthful.

You’ll think the same thing after cozying up with a plate at HomeGrown resto group’s latest: Stella, debuting Monday.

Like Mrs. Kowalski, Stella aims to merge two worlds. Local and organic ingredients are served old-school Italian trattoria style in the parlor eatery overlooking Oakland Cemetery.

On the menu: hand-tossed pizza with fresh sausage or cremini mushrooms, eggplant parmigiana, seasonal specials like hormone-free beef short ribs with roasted veggies, and rising stars like roasted mushroom ragu over crispy polenta and formaggio-stuffed pasta purses in homemade vodka sauce.

All of this in a modern-meets-cozy dining room like you’d expect from the company behind Doc Chey’s and Osteria 832.

Even brooding Brandos will be pleased.

Stella Neighborhood Trattoria, 563 Memorial Drive, Grant Park (404-688-4238 or stellaatlanta.com).