Atlanta - June 23, 2008

A Swift Kick in the …

4th & Swift Opens

When your sherpa-cum-menu interpreter succumbed to heat stroke last week, you realized that you couldn’t eat at half the restaurants in this town.

And then you realized that Jay Swift’s new place is open. (BYOB ‘till tomorrow night.)

Swift (Rainwater, South City Kitchen) is bringing his to-the-point menu mojo to the revamped old Southern Dairies space.

Pace yourself. Truffle butter and Parm popcorn, yellowfin tuna tartare over radishes and summer peas, and strawberry tapioca pudding don’t come with an extra stomach. (Though the chef’s table does come with a perfect sliding glass wall view of the kitchen.)

The most complicated-sounding thing about the place may be the drool-inducing Three Little Pigs: loin, belly, and housemade sausage cozied up to fresh mac and cheese.

You may be ordering for two after all.

4th & Swift, 621 North Avenue NE, building b, Old Fourth Ward (678-904-0160 or 4thandswift.com).