You’re hankering for a respectable stick-to-your-ribs joint, but counter service is pure chaos and sit-downs are just a little too highfalutin.

It’s time to ride on into Noon Midtown.

Former Bacchanalia sous chef Katie Birmingham lassos gourmet grub focused less on frill and more on fresh.

A panino with sopressata, arugula, and fontina or a prosciutto sandie with butter and shaved Parmesan on a baguette promises to be worth wrangling. Word of homemade soups (English pea with white truffle oil and Parmesan) and chocolate toffee pecan brownies could start a stampede.

Wash down breakfast eats (a baguette with a fried egg, Benton’s bacon, and cheddar; potato and goat cheese frittata) with a cup of Counter Culture coffee. Boxed lunches and carryout are available for diners on the run.

One things’s for certain: You’ll feel right at home on this range.

Noon Midtown, 1080 Peachtree Street, entrance on Crescent Avenue, suite 6, Midtown (404-496-4891 or noonmidtown.com).