You know the rules. And you know how to break ’em. (Besides, first date salads are for wussies.) Good thing new joint D.B.A. (doing business as) Barbecue has written a saucy new playbook. Restaurant vets Matt Coggin, Doug Morgan, and James Ehrlich join forces for traditional pit grub — brisket, baby backs, and sweet and spicy signature sauces — that requires more than a few polite napkin dabs at your kisser. Sides like deep-fried corn on the cob and tomato, cucumber, and onion salad round out the elbows-on-the table vibe. Wash everything down with Southeastern beers, novelty sodas, and cocktail doozies like the pickled moonshine martini. You read right: Jimmie Johnson moonshine, dry vermouth, and pickle juice. No need to take things slow. D.B.A. Barbecue, 1190 North Highland Avenue, suite b, Virginia Highland (404-249-5000 or dbabarbecue.com).