Atlanta - November 04, 2009

Ruling the Roost

Bistro Niko Opens

You prefer your croque monsieur cheesy, your cocktails complex, and your dining concepts anything but.

We’ve got your number. It’s 404-261-NIKO. Dial for a table when Buckhead Life Group’s Bistro Niko opens tomorrow night.

Gary Donlick’s utterly open white tile kitchen features ticketless food stations, hanging charcuterie, and an iced oyster sleigh.

The Balthazarian dining room has red-boothed, smoke-glassed charm. Donlick, Pano Karatassos, and Niko Karatassos (the resto’s namesake) sourced century-old wall sconces from French brasseries. Snapshots from their trip line the hall to the loo.

Foie gras and ham hock terrine with apple compote, veal osso buco shepherd’s pie, and an extensive craft beer list will give the anis cordial and kir royale set a run for their money.

Yet another sign that they’re speaking your language.

Bistro Niko, 3344 Peachtree Road, in the Sovereign Building, Buckhead (404-261-6456 or buckheadrestaurants.com).

  Beer, Euro, Frenchy, Open Kitchen, Private Parties, Ritzy