Our city has suffered some disheartening swaps lately (LouisBoston for Restoration Hardware, Theo for Who Cares).

But Trade, the anticipated new restaurant from Jody Adams, is a win-win.

Enter through majestic pillars into a 200-seat, rustic-industrial space with touches new and old: whitewashed brick walls, tear-shaped pendants, thick marble counters. Ensconced leather booths invite intimate tete-a-tetes, while reclaimed-wood common tables encourage interparty fraternizing.

Executive chef Andrew Hebert turns out accessible, seasonal dishes honoring the world wanderings of Adams and partners Sean Griffing and Eric Papachristos. Try whole roasted fish with lemon grass chutney, seafood stew with coconut broth, and lamb sausage flatbread with eggplant and manchego.

The cocktail program skips complicated potions for well-made classics; wines (stashed in a floor-to-ceiling wooden filing cabinet) lean old world, with several on tap alongside a selection of craft beers.

We’d trade anything for a seat.

Trade, 540 Atlantic Avenue, Waterfront (617-451-1234 or trade-boston.com).

Photo: Mike Diskin / Courtesy of Trade