Boston - April 07, 2005

Roman Holiday

Domani Bar & Trattoria

Ah, Roma. City of Vespas, fountains,
gelati, insane drivers, swaggering men, and women who eat barrels
of pasta but still inexplicably fit into size-two skirts.

Except for the insane drivers, it’s a very different city from Boston.

Or, rather, it was different. The opening of Domani Bar & Trattoria has given us our own Roman enclave, replete with everything from a decorative Vespa that greets you as you enter to smooth gelato that you order before leaving. The space is a sleek and funky ode to modern Italian design — molded wavy walls, streamlined copper banquettes, and epic windows that seem to swallow the city whole.

As for the food, well, how could it miss? Rene Michelena is at the helm (he’s also still cooking at Saint, downstairs), slinging simple, fresh dishes like asparagus with truffle vinaigrette and pungent pecorino, and tortellini with peas, favas, and tangy-sweet fresh ricotta.

Fare that’s oh-so Modern Rome, to be sure. Though be warned: There’s not a size-two thing about it.

Domani Bar & Trattoria, 51 Huntington Avenue, at Exeter Street, Back Bay (617-424-8500).