Boston - April 29, 2005

Fashion Plate

Inq Bistro

Enough with the pretentious, gimmicky eateries already. Sometimes all you want at the end of a power-shopping binge is a quick, tasty, unpretentious bite.

Meet Newbury Street’s latest — the refreshingly simple Inq. Tucked into the revamped space that used to house Saffron, its two floors have been overhauled by owner Daniel Kaufman and chef Joshua Breen. (Don’t fret; the second floor still offers prime people-watching from its epic bay windows.)

Breen’s hearty, classic dishes (steak au poivre) and comfort foods (some with Eastern inspiration, like the curry chicken risotto) are just the thing for post-spree sustenance. The dessert menu, meanwhile, holds its own with rich creme brulees and chocolate bread pudding.

Better to do your shopping first, though; your waistline may not be the same after.

Inq Bistro & Bar, 279A Newbury Street, at Gloucester Street, Back Bay (617-536-9766).