Boston - May 25, 2005

Lord of the Fries

Stella Bistro Opens

Sometimes there really can be too much of a good thing.

If, for example, we had a pomme frite for every adorable little eatery in the bistro-saturated South End, well, let’s just say that Fat Bastard would have some serious competition.

So hats off, then, to the departure that is Stella. The Washington Street boite opened this week under Evan Deluty (the force behind Beacon Hill’s Torch). What’s so special about it? For starters, the look: Instead of the now-ubiquitous warm-walls-and-dark-wood aesthetic, the place is a pale ode to sleek mod, with slabs of white lacquer and blonde woods.

Then there’s the equally refreshing menu: Stella slings some of the neighborhood’s only authentic Italian food. That means seasonal specialties like rock shrimp with zucchini blossom and summer squash. And lastly there’s the veritable slew of al fresco tables facing the adjacent park, enough to create a serious outdoor dining scene on the block — and to hold packs of hungry South Enders.

And, we should add, plenty of Roman potatoes — the Italian answer to pommes frites.

Stella, 1525 Washington Street, between Dedham Street and Massachusetts Avenue (617-247-7747).