Boston - September 30, 2005

The New Establishment

Ashmont Grill Opens

If you cook it, they will come.

At least if you’re Chris Douglass. One of the pioneers who first lit the culinary fires in the South End (with the renowned Icarus), Douglass is now laying roots in Dorchester with his new, wallet-friendly Ashmont Grill.

Smack in Peabody Square, previously the land of junky pizza and takeout joints, Douglass has reincarnated the old Ashmont Grille, dropping the e, adding a sleek interior, a curved bar, and globe-shaped light fixtures.

His scaled-down menu offers simply prepared, affordable food: The highest price is $17 for a flatiron steak, and all sides range from $2 to $4. Pizzas and pasta are $10 to $12. You can get a grass-fed beef burger for $8, a $5 hot dog for your kids (or your inner child), an appetizer of grilled squid for $7.50, or wood-grilled chicken wings with lime, chili, and cilantro for a mere $8.50.

Also on the menu? “Established - 1959; Reborn - 2005” — which might end up being just as true of Peabody Square.

In fact, with Douglass at the helm, what Ashmont Grill does for the neighborhood may just be the most appetizing thing of all.

Ashmont Grill, 555 Talbot Avenue, Dorchester (617-825-4300 or ashmontgrill.com).