Boston - February 13, 2006

Love at First Bite

Cafe D Opens

They say the courtship stage of every relationship is the best.

We beg to differ.

It’s all about the comfort zone. You know, when he finally sees her without any mascara. And when he gives her flowers because he wants to, not because he has to.

Last week’s opening of Cafe D is a lot like that stage.

Formerly the more uppity and expensive Arbor, the J.P. space has taken things down a notch with a low-key interior. The bar’s been extended, one wall is decoupaged with international newspapers, and chandeliers (from Byzantine to glass) proliferate.

The food, too, is more relaxed than Arbor’s. But it’s still impeccably done. Chef-owner Douglas Organ rolls out a menu of spiced lamb meatloaf with dried fruit, steak tartare loaded up with capers, plus weekday specials like New England cioppino.

His aim? A pretense-free neighborhood favorite where you can go any ol’ night and just be yourself.

With or without mascara.

Cafe D, 711 Centre Street, Jamaica Plain (617-522-9500).