Boston - February 27, 2006

Your Big Break

Chiara Restaurant

Sometimes, you just need a night off. From the intrigue of who’s wearing what at table four. From sneering-waiter condescension and gastronomic trends (read: foam) of any kind.

Sounds like someone needs to discover Chiara.

The pretty, low-key boite is in Westwood (a quick drive off the beaten track) but is remarkably urbane — with glowing cube-shaped light fixtures and neutral walls jolted with shots of bright modern art.

Chef Joe Rocco keeps it real with oysters napped with apple-cucumber confetti and pink peppercorn mignonette; clean-flavored salads of baby ruby and golden beets with horseradish sour cream and pickled shallots; and cinnamon-dusted breast of Long Island duck with blackberry demiglace, dried-fig risotto, and caramelized root vegetables.

Matched with ultra-friendly service and a humble but astute wine list, it’s all proof that you can have a night off.

Without skipping great food.

Chiara, 569 High Street, Westwood (781-461-8118).