Boston - July 25, 2006

Get Sauced

Soul Fire Restaurant

The fashion fiend says: Life is all about dressing. The food fanatic answers: Well, sure. But which flavor?

Their answer may just lie at newly opened Soul Fire, the Allston joint serving up real Southern BBQ, background music as hot as the food, and an epic bar full of sauces.

Slather it all on the house’s baby backs, brisket, wings, or fried catfish. Chase it with coleslaw that’s actually crispy (not too mayo-ey) and has a smattering of caraway seeds. And for mercy’s sake, don’t miss the fried mac ’n’ cheese balls.

As for the sauces themselves? They veer from tomato-based or vinegar and peppers to mustard and a sweet Memphis-style. Mix and match the hot and mild ones with the sweet and spicy — whatever transforms the meat into your idea of perfection.

Just keep a pile of napkins handy. Sauces this finger-lickin’ good are inevitably a messy affair.

Which should also solve the question of what you’re going to wear.

Soul Fire, 182 Harvard Avenue, Allston (617-787-3003 or soulfirebbq.com).