Boston - September 18, 2006

Bin Good

Bin 26 Enoteca

So. Another upscale Italian opening? You don’t say.

Yawn. Bin there, ate that.

So what if Bin 26 Enoteca’s backed by big-time names — like Azita Bina-Seibel and Babak Bina, the brother-sister team who brought us Lala Rokh? And big whoop if it follows in the beloved enoteca tradition of pairing incredible wines with outstanding food. And who cares if the interior — walnut tables, bamboo floors, and luminous wine bottles everywhere — is as minimalist-chic as a little black dress?

Or that the food (creative plates of ethereal cocoa tagliatelle with porcini or beef carpaccio with aged Parmesan and arugula) is all made with either fresh, seasonal ingredients from local farms or imported straight from Italy.

We’re so jaded, we’re barely impressed that, with its unpretentious vibe and wide windows looking out onto Charles Street, it might just be the kind of neighborhood spot Boston’s been missing. (Okay, so maybe we are impressed. Very.)

On second thought, we have an altogether different question for the place.

Where have you bin all our lives?

Bin 26 Enoteca, 26 Charles Street, Beacon Hill (617-723-5939).