Boston - December 15, 2006

Secret Garden

Garden at The Cellar Opens

Few things are as satisfying as unleashing a big secret. Even when you know it’ll get you into trouble.

Like, oh, announcing the arrival of a new restaurant called Garden at The Cellar. (Oops, must’ve slipped out — though we wanted to keep it to ourselves.)

This gem quietly opened recently over a subterranean beer bar near Harvard Square. We wondered: Could such a dive really be a worthwhile eatery? Curiosity (and hunger) won (as usual), so we ducked in and were greeted by the scent of fresh rosemary, an open kitchen, a cozy bar, and a handful of gleaming table tops.

Chef Will Gilson (formerly of Oleana) sent out marinated cheeses, autumn-spiced meatballs, crunchy flat-bread pizza with roasted chicken, and a meltingly tender vegetable risotto. All comfort food. All affordable. All fantastic. Classic jazz and blues played overhead. The wine list, short but sweet, met our approval. 

And just like that, we fell in love.

There. That feels better. But let’s just keep this one between us.

Garden at The Cellar, 991 Massachusetts Avenue, between Central and Harvard Square (617-876-2580 or gardenatthecellar.com).