May 11, 2007

Give Us the Boot

Sage Restaurant Opens

You know all the cliches about Italy: stylish to its core, incredible food in every direction, serene one moment, loud as all get-out the next.

In other words, it’s pretty much a macro version of the new Sage, the South End reincarnation of chef Anthony Susi’s previously tiny North End spot.

Decked out with 50-plus seats, glittering bulbous chandeliers, tapestry-covered banquettes, and bright photos of everything from sapphire blue Vespas to stacked black pumps, it manages to suggest local flavor without going overboard.

And, oh, what flavors those are: Susi’s cod cheeks with bacon and peas are as tender and tiny as the pillows of a dollhouse. His risotto is simple and perfectly cooked, laced with tomato and a smattering of cheeses, and the unctuous duck breast is a revelation. Meanwhile, the panna cotta is as smooth as all the men in Rome combined.

Not that we would ever buy into stereotypes.

Sage, 1395 Washington Street, South End (617-248-8814 or sageboston.com).