Boston - June 26, 2007

Quiet Riot

T.W. Food Restaurant

You can count on the quiet ones to cause the biggest stirs.

Like mousy Susie, smoking in fifth-grade homeroom. Or Geoff the college technogeek, who built a porn empire while you party-hopped your way to a degree (barely). Just goes to show that low profile doesn’t necessarily mean low impact.

Take new T.W. Food Restaurant, a teensy gem of an eatery, which opened sans fanfare in May. Inside an unassuming Cambridge brownstone, chef Tim Wiechmann, formerly of Ten Tables, crafts an exquisite, changing menu of local and seasonal fare, like the current amuse-bouche of thumb-size lobster rolls (summer in a bite) or tiny Big Ox Farm lettuces with rose-scented vinaigrette and citrus chips.

Emphasizing biodynamic wines, house-made charcuterie, and sustainably raised meats, every meal is kind to both planet and palate.

Lest your evening end on too virtuous a note, there’s Scotch & Cigars — a devilish combo of chocolate custard, tobacco-infused creme anglaise, and single malt scotch syrup.

Because the silent types always keep a little something naughty up their sleeves.

T.W. Food Restaurant, 377 Walden Street, Cambridge (617-864-4745 or twfoodrestaurant.com).