Boston - November 10, 2008

Time for a Quickie

Sportello Cafe Opens for Lunch

Sometimes you like it long and slow. Other times, you’re in and out.

Lunchtime can be a fickle friend.

Whichever mood you’re in, Sportello — the latest joint from chef Barbara Lynch — is sure to satisfy. The cafe’s snaking white counter, stools, and quick service were inspired by Brigham’s, where Lynch worked and snacked as a kid. But the food is plenty more refined.

There’s tagliatelle Bolognese; rich, porcini ragu; and chicken soup with cumin gnocchi. A simple Italian wine list rounds out the show.

Dinner service is in the offing; for now, the spot’s open weekdays until 7 p.m. Stop by the bakery counter for house-made rosemary raisin bread and robiola-stuffed croissants or salami and provolone sandwiches to go. Or take away olive oil, coffee, tea, pasta, and jars of Italian honey.

For when you want it short and sweet.

Sportello, 348 Congress Street, South Boston (617-737-1234 or sportelloboston.com).