In marriage, taking a new last name can be traumatic. Luckily, the union between the restaurant formerly known as Perennial and new chef Paul Virant (Vie) is drama free. Perennial Virant opened last week with a new look and menu to match. Seasonality is Virant’s specialty. An affordable three-course prix fixe menu ($37) with combinations like smoked trout with ramps, chicken fricassee, and butter pound cake changes weekly. A la carte options include cornmeal cake with preserved tomatoes and burrata, rabbit ballotine with pickled fennel, and smoked beef ribs. Matt Eggleston’s stellar cocktails are required drinking; the beer list leans local. Brunch (coming soon) brings Southern comfort staples including meat and three (crispy cotechino, Wisconsin cheddar fondue, buttered sugar snap peas), Virant’s mom’s sourdough sticky buns, and strawberries and cream. It’s love at first bite. Perennial Virant, 1800 North Lincoln Avenue, at Wells Street (312-981-7070).