Even Michelin-starred chefs need to press the reset button every so often.
Graham Elliot is one of them.
He recently refreshed his River West namesake (adios, communal table), spiffed up his staff (ciao, Chuck Taylors), and, most importantly, named Andrew Brochu (Alinea, Kith & Kin) executive chef.
Pair Brochu’s eight- or fifteen-course tasting menus with (pricey but worth it) wines from Jamie Kluz.
Plates are as artful as they are flavorful: Slurp up silky pea soup with lavender gel and goat cheese puree; meaty lobster and seafood sausage with Meyer lemon; homemade pasta ribbons sauced with poached egg yolk and African blue basil; crawfish with frog legs, pickled celery, potatoes, and dianthus blossoms (Brochu has a thing for edible flowers).
For dessert, a play on milk and cookies evokes childhood memories.
Wham, bam, thank you, Graham.
Graham Elliot, 217 West Huron Street, between Wells and Franklin Streets (312-624-9975 or grahamelliot.com).
Photo: Courtesy of Graham Elliot