When Covo Gyro Market owner Ted Maglaris (Prasino) presented us with a spoon and stated, “Melitzanosalata,” we smiled awkwardly.
It’s all Greek to us.
One bite of the herb-packed eggplant dip led to several more. We’ll be returning to the new Wicker Park quick-service joint to load up on spicy feta and Santorini fava dips; lentil, quinoa, and roasted red pepper salad; tabbouleh; chickpea- and tomato-studded Israeli couscous; and, for dessert, Maglaris’s grandmother’s Greek yogurt with fresh fruit and honey.
In a Chipotle-esque assembly line, meat eaters can ogle rotating spits of lamb, pork, and chicken, spiced and packed in the traditional way. Buttery pitas (small or regular) are stuffed with protein, accoutrements, and sauce (tzatziki, honey mustard, barbecue). Sides include the aforementioned dips and spiced French fries.
Camp out at a reclaimed wood table lit with Edison bulbs and enjoy.
Or, as Maglaris would say, “Kalí óreksi.”
Covo Gyro Market, 1482 North Milwaukee Avenue, at Honore Street (312-626-2660 or covogyro.com).
Photo: Lara Kastner / Courtesy of Covo Gyro Market