Chicago - October 17, 2005

The Reinvention Tour

Michael Restaurant Opens

There’s a lot to be said for reinventing yourself.

Take, for instance, our old pal Madge. Kabbalah Madonna is light-years from Ms. Lucky Star, who only vaguely resembles the proper children’s author of the same name.

Chef Michael Lachowicz is stealing a page from her book with Michael, a new French restaurant with a twist. Having headed up the kitchens at Les Deux Gros and the legendary Le Francais, this time he plays to a more casual crowd.

Expect dishes like twin grilled quail filled with truffled risotto or orange-scented duck leg and pan-roasted pekin breast with candied garlic — all for under $25. What’s more, portions on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Thursdays, and Sundays are made to split (something most Frenchies don’t allow in the world of fine dining).

But in Lachowicz’s universe, it’s all served in an intimate, comfortable setting with no trace of the stuffiness that usually accompanies French food.

Just the kind of reinvention worthy of a single name.

Michael, 64 Green Bay Road, Winnetka (847-441-3100).