Food & Drink

Man of the House

Dear Shawn,

You’ve done it again.

First you reeled us in with fish at Spring. Then you brought us aboard the veggie train at Green Zebra. Now you’re tempting us with meat at Custom House, your latest spot, opening today.

Your timing couldn’t be better, McClain. Not that we don’t like our leafy brothers (especially when served from your kitchen), but with the temps dropping and the influx of small plate restos around town, we’ve been feeling a little cheated when it comes to portion size and substance. Sometimes a belly needs a good piece of meat.

Which is precisely why we can’t wait to taste the lamb and fennel sausage with white beans and sweet pepper preserves. The braised short ribs with horseradish gratin. The Kobe skirt steak with mushroom carpaccio. Sure, we’re excited to check out what designer Francois Geneve has done to the old Prairie space (limestone ledge walls, 13-foot panoramic windows, Macassar ebony wood details), but what’s really drawing us to the Printer’s Row spot is what you’ve got going on in the kitchen.

After all, wherever you go, we follow.

Custom House, 500 South Dearborn Street, at Congress Parkway (312-523-0200 or customhouse.cc).