There are times when it makes sense to sacrifice comfort for style.

Three-inch stilettos with ostrich feathers. A midcentury Eames sofa. A short skirt on New Year’s Eve. All well worth the cause.

But when it comes to mealtime, why torture your palate with fashionable cuisine (sushi made with edible paper) when you could eat at Dine, the 1940s-inspired restaurant that opened yesterday?

Never mind the Greektown address. Dine serves classic American comfort food — with a knowing nod toward 21st-century taste buds. Chef Trevor Hoyte (Caliterra, TRU) does modern takes on crispy fried chicken and hearty meatloaf. Pastry chef Kate Milashus (Zealous, Pili Pili) makes delightfully retro desserts, like root beer floats, lemon meringue pie, and PB& J banana bread sandwiches (peanut butter buttercream, fruit preserves, and peanut butter swirl ice cream).

The decor is all comfy, chockful of big banquettes and lounge areas perfect for enjoying the kind of meal that never goes out of fashion.

Wish we could say the same for the elastic waistband pull-up pants you’ll want to sport.

Dine, 733 West Madison Street, at Halsted Street (312-602-2100).

Photo Credit: Jess Smith