Chicago - October 13, 2006

Empire Strikes Back

Empire Liquors Opens

Wicker Park? Oh, we heart it for the multiple shopping and dining options. But when the clock strikes midnight and every hipster in the hood is angling for a seat at Rodan, we turn into a pumpkin and head home for a good night’s rest.

Thankfully, pretty-boy bar owner Matt Eisler (Elm Street Liquors, Victory Liquors) has opened his third spot, Empire Liquors, just up the block in the old Reservation Blues space.

Empire looks nothing like its older sibs, with its herringbone slate floor and exposed brick walls. Hunker down on a sturdy tree trunk stool or pull up to the concrete bar and order something off the DIY drink menu: There are two dozen flavors of gourmet syrups, like rose, peach, candied orange, and lychee, with which you create your own signature hard Italian soda. A pump of syrup, a wallop of vodka, a generous pour of seltzer, and you’re set well into the wee hours.

As you sip (or slosh), take in the dark-and-Gothic-meets-sleek-and-modern vibe. It kind of reminds us of Rose McGowan now that she’s streamlined and cleaned up her look.

Which, in turn, kind of reminds us of Wicker Park.

Empire Liquors, 1566 North Milwaukee Avenue, between North Avenue and Honore Street (773-278-1600).