Chicago - March 30, 2007

Cod Piece of Work

Baccala Opens

In Italy, lunchtime is an indulgence of antipasti, primi, and seconds of vino. Closer to home (in your cubicle, to be exact), it’s a good day when you have time to scarf a Hot Pocket.

Get a dose of la dolce vita at Baccala, the latest culinary venture from Slow Food chef John Bubala. On a recent trip to Italy, Bubala (who also owns Timo) savored the flavors of old-world, ragu-style cooking. Beginning today, you can do the same.

Baccala’s menu drips with Piedmontese influence, from porcini tortellini simmered in chicken broth, scallions, and pork fat to grilled mackerel with eggplant, olives, oregano, and capers. And, of course, there’s the restaurant’s namesake, a salt cod and potato combo teeming with garlic.

You can order dishes as appetizer or entree, but whatever you choose, plan to devote plenty of time to your meal.

If not, Bubala just might give you the boot.

Baccala, 1540 North Milwaukee Avenue, at Damen Avenue (773-227-1400).