There is only one viable reason the French don’t get fat: They’re calorie resistant.

The rest of us get saddlebags at the mere mention of the word baguette.

C’est la vie? Sure, if la vie involves rich dinners at Madame Tartine. The charming bistro opens today in River North. Don Kruse (Stanley’s Kitchen & Tap, Butterfield 8) and Jonathan Segal (Minnies, P.J. Clarke’s) deliver approachable French cuisine to the Midwest masses.

Between the full bar, dining room, and patio seating for 100, Madame bustles with the energy of a European market. Chef Jonathan Foster (Savarin, Le Passage) sautes, sears, and bakes tartines, risottos, escargots, French onion soup, tenderloin, seared scallops, and soon-to-be-added daily specials (frog legs, coq au vin).

Vintage wallpaper and French flea market finds harken back to 1960s Europe.

Call it tarte blanche.

Madame Tartine, 22 East Hubbard Street, between State Street and Wabash Avenue (312-755-0007).