You always judge a book by its cover.

So you’ll be interested to learn that West Town’s 27th Ward Library isn’t at all what it seems.

A few days ago, Branch 27, an American bistro, quietly opened its doors in the old book house. Chef Bob Zrenner (X/O, North Pond) read up on hearty food history and created a menu of shareable apps (goat cheese spread, grilled octopus, homemade flatbreads) and simple, down-home entrees (roasted chicken, baked eggplant, flatiron steak).

Branch’s charming, roomy interior has terrazzo floors, custom rustic wares, and repurposed woods. There’s a bar, a dining room, and an atrium for private parties. Come summer, giant windows open wide so you can gawk at passers-by as you graze.

Talk about eating your words.

Branch 27, 1371 West Chicago Avenue, at Noble Street (312-850-2700 or branch27.com).