Much as you love Greektown, papier-mache Parthenons don’t do much for your taste buds.

For a mural-free Mediterranean experience, head to Taxim, a just-opened Wicker Park joint.

Owner David Schneider, sous chef Jan Rickerl (Green Zebra, Scylla, Blue Water Grill), and consulting chef Christine Kim (Green Zebra, Spring, Spago) blend flavor combinations from Asia Minor with a modern twist.

Imported Greek ingredients (olive oil, honey, spices) and house-made staples (Greek yogurt, Pontian pita) are a strong foundation for mezes and entrees like faki (green lentil soup, sesame pita, goat feta, ten-year aged balsamic). The gyro swaps pomegranate-glazed duck and garlic yogurt mousse for lamb and tzatziki. An all-Greek wine list rounds out the menu.

Break us off a Greece of that.

Taxim, 1558 North Milwaukee Avenue, between North Avenue and North Honore Street (773-252-1558).