Chicago - May 05, 2009

Holy Mole

La Fonda del Gusto Opens

Last Halloween, you dressed up like a burrito and scored a free meal at Chipotle.

Too embarrassed to return (the tortilla thong was overkill), you’ve been jonesing ever since.

Get that ass to La Fonda del Gusto in Wicker Park. Owners Lisa Lee and Jose Palomino have strong ties to Mexican cuisine (her aunt owned El Gusto; he grew up on a farm in Mexico).

In its opening phase, Fonda will serve traditional basics (enchiladas, tacos, chiles rellenos), eventually expanding to a seasonal menu of comforting peasant food — albóndigas (Mexican meatballs served in a thick, chipotle-based broth), mole negro, and tamarind-glazed pork tenderloin. Desserts like champurrado cookies with sweet corn ice cream and strawberry margarita cake abound.

It’s BYO, so stock up.

And put an end to your cheek streak.

La Fonda del Gusto, 1408 North Milwaukee Avenue, between Wolcott and Evergreen Avenues (773-278-6100).