Chicago - June 12, 2009

Mind Your P's and Cues

Gary Wiviott Gets His Smoke On

There’s no better time than summer to fire up the ol’ barbie. We grilled barbecue life coach and Chicagoan Gary Wiviott, author of Low & Slow, for tried-and-true tips and techniques.

What’s the diff between barbecuing and grilling?
Barbecue is low and slow — roasting and braising. Grilling is hot and fast — under a broiler, using an already tender piece of meat.

Some of us are vegetarians. Do you hate us?
Not at all. I’m a second-level vegetarian: I eat only animals that eat vegetables.

What’s the worst mistake people make when grilling or barbecuing?
People pay too much attention to the meat. Leave it alone. Every time you open the cooker, you let out heat. I have an antifutz policy.

Who would win in a fistfight, you or Bobby Flay?
Flay’s in better shape, so if it lasted longer than a minute, Flay would win. But if I hit the first minute, Flay wouldn’t stand a chance.

Got a favorite butcher?
For pork shoulders and spare ribs, Peoria Packing Butcher Shop (1307 West Lake Street, between Ada and Elizabeth Streets; 312-738-1800). It’s an old-style meat locker with full slabs on the tables. Also, Harrison’s Poultry (1201 Waukegan Road, at McClean Court, Glenview; 847-724-0132) for chicken, sausage from Paulina Market (3501 North Lincoln Avenue, at Cornelia Avenue; 773-248-6272), and Costco (multiple locations) for consistency — great baby back ribs.

What’s your go-to barbecue joint?
I stick to old-style places that use aquarium smokers that burn straight wood — it’s more of an artisanal product with a pit master. I love Honey 1 (2241 North Western Avenue, at Lyndale Street; 773-227-5130) and Uncle John’s (337 East 69th Street, at Calumet Avenue; 773-892-1233).

Name something everyone should try to barbecue but hasn’t.
Fifteen-pound briskets are daunting but unbelievably delicious after ten to twelve hours on the smoker.

Any closing thoughts?
Once you learn the basics, the world is your oyster — and oysters taste pretty good on the smoker.

Low & Slow is available online at amazon.com.