Chicago - November 02, 2009

Comeback Kids

Hearty Restaurant Opens

Bodysuits, ’90s sitcoms, pickling.

Whether you like ’em or not, they’re back.

Here’s a comeback that won’t cause chafing: Dan Smith and Steve McDonagh (a.k.a. The Hearty Boys) are back in action with Hearty in Lakeview, opening Wednesday.

Nestle near the wall-mounted fireplace for traditional comfort food with a contemporary kick: rabbit sausage corn dogs, chicken and porridge, deconstructed tuna casserole (egg noodles, saffron cream, panko-crusted ahi logs, wasabi peas). Pudding flights make childhood feel close (your diet, not so much).

Sunday brunch includes shepherd’s pie (chive scrambled eggs, sage breakfast sausage, hash browns), Caribbean crab eggs Benedict, and pumpkin pancakes.

The next comeback: you.

Hearty, 3819 North Broadway, between Grace Street and Sheridan Road (773-868-9866 or heartyboys.com).

Photo: Courtesy of Hearty