Judge: We are here to discuss the matter of the City versus restauranteur Brendan Sodikoff. 

Lawyer: Mr. Sodikoff, are you softly opening Gilt Bar today in the former Aigre Doux space?

Sodikoff: Yes.

Lawyer: Have you done time at The French Laundry, Alain Ducasse, Per Se?

Sodikoff: Serious time.

Lawyer: I submit exhibit A, Gilt Bar’s menu of roasted bone marrow, pork and duck liver toast, reasonably priced sixteen-ounce porterhouse steak, shareable house-made pasta prepared with local cheese, and blackened cauliflower on the side. Allegedly, everything is farm fresh. Are you hiding something?

Sodikoff: You mean off-menu, old-fashioned desserts, like homemade hot fudge?

Lawyer: You’re also responsible for the ambiance: hammered brass bar top, vintage street lamps, and rustic leather settees. Incidentally, the cocktail program isn’t as simple as you claim. 

Sodikoff: Well, we pour classics like Sazeracs and Blood and Sands.

Judge: Jurors?

Jury: Gilty as charged.

Gilt Bar, 230 West Kinzie Street, at Franklin Street (312-464-9544).