You’ve got a beef with old-school steak joints. Seems like all the patrons order marrow with a side of mistress.

For a little bit of class, check out Benny’s in River North, a just-opened restaurant from Benny Siddu (Volare). Exec chef Jonathan Lane (Four Seasons) serves reimagined liver and onions (foie gras with caramelized onions and pork belly), a daily catch from Tobago, decadent sides (sweet potato brulee), and Italian staples (lobster ravioli, lamb meatballs, braised oxtail). Allen Brothers provides the dry-aged cuts.

Winos have plenty to guzzle, courtesy of Alinea sommelier Justin Leone; global craft brews (paired for each course) bolster beer’s rep. Cocktails include the Picket Fence (rum, sherry, Dutch caramel vodka, cider).

And a musician tickles the ivories of a baby grand on weekends.

He’s quite the player.

Benny’s Chop House, 444 North Wabash Avenue, at Illinois Street (312-626-2444 or bennyschophouse.com).

Photo: Shutterstock