Two years ago, in a cruel twist of fate, Dodo restaurant went the way of the bird for which it was named.

Fortunately, the fan base — and chef/owner Kim Dalton — remained very much alive. Today Dodo is back serving worship-worthy weekend brunch in Fulton Market.

Look for the sign reading Dino’s Morgan Inn (Dodo occupies the same space), step inside, and let the memories flood back: veggie-packed Japanese pancake with okonomiyaki sauce, old standby Breakunchwich (airy ciabatta pocketing scrambled eggs, cheese, and meat/veggies), weekly hash bowl, and maple-sauteed bananas.

This weekend’s specials include graham cracker-laced pancakes with Key lime creme and buttermilk syrup, autumn quiche with ricotta salata, and red flannel hash with corned beef and sweet potatoes.

What’s new: the liquor license and credit card machine. It’s really spreading its wings.

Dodo, 954 West Fulton Market, at Morgan Street (312-226-5300 or dodochicago.com).

Photo: Bdu / Flickr